In some ways, a city life sings loudest along its long, broad boulevards. These are the places where cultures and accents blend, where the sidewalks stay alive after the sun sets, and where the little shops and restaurants bounce happily from country to country, flavor to flavor.
In Wilmington, that down-to-earth ethnic accent is heard most clearly in the crests and troughs of hilly Fourth Street, where the street-corner shops serve up the closely held memories of Puerto Rico or the Dominican Republic.
To those who rarely walk these streets, culinary curiosity frequently requires the accompaniment of an adventuresome nature, and success can demand a good portion of luck and tolerance. Still, risks frequently carry rewards, as this street's two Dominican restaurants prove.
The most appealing (and sometimes, the most frustrating) of these is Tu Rancho Jubilee, where an easy Island-themed attitude is sometimes betrayed by a too-casual approach to business. Down the street at the Dominican Cafe, home-style Dominican specialties are served quickly, plentifully and cheaply, but also with less flair and sophistication.
Tu Rancho Jubilee: The sit-down option
Of course, sophistication is probably the last thing required to appreciate the savory, cross-cultural nature of Caribbean cuisine. At Jubilee, the best boast a sly simplicity, whether it's an entree of chicken stuffed with shrimp and topped with rich Creole sauce ($20); or the intriguingly satisfying bandeja paisa platter of rice, beans, sausage, avocado, grilled beef and eggs ($16) -- a far more harmonious combination than its elements would imply.
Once you convince the friendly staff to turn the blaring Dominican disco music down a tad (and resist the urge to suggest they clean the bathrooms), you'll want to try Jubilee's solid appetizer assortment, especially the gloriously meaty picadera puñal platter, featuring fried nuggets of beef, chicken and Dominican sausage ($14). For some dunking goodness -- especially considering the cook's inclinations toward dryness -- be sure to get a bowl of the tangy, piquant and unapologetically garlic-studded salsa they serve.
Even it couldn't do much to salvage an overcooked and stringy Agentinian-style skirt steak ($15), suggesting that Jubilee would be wise to focus on dishes that stick to Dominican roots, such as the traditional mofongo of mashed plantains and shrimp ($15).
Dominican Cafe: For take-out tastes
At the Dominican Cafe, they advise there’s a 25-minute wait for that classic dish, leaving time to enjoy this shop’s more takeout-minded treats. Rellenos de papas – softly fried balls of mashed potatoes stuffed with seasoned ground beef – deliver rich, filling fulfillment. A nice touch with darkly savory sauces highlights such entrees as stewed chunks of goat, or braised chicken thighs, or even pork chops. On the downside, the seasoning used in these dishes doesn’t do much to set one apart from the other, leaving less savvy diners to wonder perhaps what’s really Dominican about Dominican food. I have to admit, I’m still not sure. But it was fun looking.
