Recession? What recession? Pizza by Elizabeths, in the Greenville Center, has been overwhelmed by its success.
While not many restaurateurs would complain about having too many customers, hopefully the owners can get a handle on the overflow. On two separate occasions, we've watched several frustrated patrons walk out because of the wait time... of an hour.
What's all the fuss about a 15-year-old gourmet pizza restaurant?
Pizza by Elizabeths has left behind its old country casual dining room and moved into a newly revamped space just a short distance away. The much roomier digs ooze with what owner Betsy LeRoy has called "swanky glamour." And there's now so much appealing light in the cavernous restaurant.
With the preppie pink, lime green and flowery fabric on the booths, shades of turquoise on the walls, Baby Grand piano and elegant chandeliers, Elizabeths has become a girly-girl restaurant that feels classy without slipping into Hannah Montana immaturity. (A decidedly non-metrosexual guy during one visit said he felt quite comfortable and didn't mind the frou-frous.) More eye candy is provided by the murals that feature such famous Elizabeths as Elizabeth Taylor, circa her come-hither "Cat on a Hot Tin Roof" period, and oldtime Hollywood screen queen Bette Davis.
Indeed, the space seems so upscale, we began to wonder if we shouldn't have worn something nicer than jeans. (Jeans are fine, we're told.)
Thankfully, it's not all show. Elizabeths always reliable pizza continues to impress as much as it did when the restaurant first opened in 1993.
The menu has some new additions, including a starter of sliders known as "Lizzie's minis" ($11.25). It's the one dish I can't work up much enthusiasm for. The toasted, gluten-free biscuits were dry, and the juiceless burgers were overcooked. The saving grace was an excellent side of homemade ketchup.
A much better bet is the cream of tomato soup ($5.50-$7), which is served with a freshly baked breadstick. The soup is thick, but not too creamy, with enough spiciness to warm the cheeks.
Any starter salad topped with Elizabeths' signature sweet/spicy curried pecans is a winner in my book, yet the pear and apple slices, tossed with toasted walnut, blue cheese and organic greens with balsamic vinaigrette ($9-$11.25) is quickly becoming a favorite.
But the real reason to come to Elizabeths is for the first-rate wood-fired pizzas, which come in two sizes -- "mini" and "regular."
While it's much easier today in Delaware to find good gourmet pizzas than it was before 1993, few places do their crust as well as Elizabeths. It's thin, crisp and brittle around the edges, yet still has some chewy tug without being too doughy. You can choose between a homemade white crust and a low-fat honey-wheat crust.
Then you can still create your own pizza with a wide range of toppings -- go crazy with barbecue chicken, green olive pesto, smoked gouda and rosemary onion or spinach saute -- or chose the house creations (all named for Elizabeths).
The Saint ($10.75-$15.75), with its creamy crab and artichoke and topped with parmesan cheese, paprika and chives, reminds me of crab imperial on a crust. White pizza fans will never go wrong with the Queen ($9.25-$12.75), which combines rich mushroom duxelles sauce with tender, white chunks of chicken and parmesan cheese.
The Hutton ($10.50-$15.75) combines the saltiness of thin-sliced prosciutto with sweet roasted peppers and artichoke hearts under a bed of fontina and mozzarella cheese.
Servers at Elizabeths are eager to please. While waiting for a lunch table, we ordered soft drinks from the bar and appreciated the advice from the bartender who told me to hold onto the glasses; there will be free refills at the table.
