Noodleheads, rejoice! | Metromix Delaware

Noodleheads, rejoice!

Five ways to enjoy pasta, whether Asian, Cincy or mac and cheese

Eric Ruth

Metromix
May 15, 2009

Noodleheads, rejoice!
Pancit palabok * Philippine Bread House and Restaurant * Newark (Credit: William Bretzger)

Here's how to tell if you're a noodle-head:

1. You're sitting in a fabulously expensive Italian restaurant, knowing you can order anything you'd like -- milk-fed veal, sumptuous seafood -- and you get the manicotti with meat sauce.

2. The fridge is full of socially acceptable breakfast possibilities -- eggs, bacon, yogurt -- and you grab last night's cold spaghetti.

3. You look in the cabinets and discover that you own exactly one can of vegetables -- and 32 half-used boxes of supermarket pasta.

The next step in this downward spiral of carbohydrate catatonia usually involves some sort of ethnic diversification -- a latent addiction to won-ton soup; a torrid encounter with seductively silky Japanese noodles. Before long you've tumbled head-long into a sort of starch-based trance, slurping your way mindlessly through the world's great noodle dishes.

In some ways, the many permutations of pasta-esque dishes share attributes, each possessing that certain spicy, chewy, sassy character that defines all good noodles. In other ways, they are so very different, each adding their own subtle twist to our twirly desires.

But the most confounding thing about these non-Italian pasta dishes is finding them. Here's a start:

Hunan Restaurant

1812 Marsh Road - Wilmington
302-475-8300

Way down in the depths of many Chinese menus are the "Fun" dishes -- stir-fried rice-noodle specialties with such enigmatic names as "Chow Fun," "Ho Fun" and "Mai Fun." Most commonly, they're tossed with sliced meat and vegetables, and are available in either thick ("Ho") or thin ("Mai") widths. The most assertive and inspired among the Fun dishes is a version commonly called "Singapore Mai Fun," or sometimes "Singapore Noodles," which are set apart by their slightly fiery, curry-scented character.

Cincinnati Chili Parlor

5916 Kirkwood Highway - Wilmington
302-999-1010

Possibly the most peculiar and pleasing noodle-based concoction on earth, "Cincinnati Chili" is a revered amalgam of clove-and-cinnamon scented beef chili that's ladled over fat spaghetti noodles and then topped to the slurper's preference: "Two-way" is just chili and pasta; "Three-way" has shredded cheddar as well; "Four-way" has chopped onions tossed on; and "Five Way" guilds the messy lily with kidney beans. All "ways" are traditionally served with oyster crackers. An absolute marvel of gluttony.

Philippine Bread House

1020 Capitol Trail - Newark
302-455-1211

In the hands of a good Filipino cook, the deceptively simple dish of Pancit can create a lifelong craving for this fresh, healthful mix of rice noodles, vegetables and meat. There are many versions as there are Filipino cooks, but Pancit is often perked up with soy sauce and/ or fish sauce, and can range from fairly dry to quite saucy.

Tasti Thai

Tasti Thai

287 Christiana Road - New Castle
302-322-1306

The Thais are absolute masters of the noodle, ranging from the now-common Pad Thai to a few less-appreciated dishes. Some possibilities to consider: pad see ew (rice noodles with broccoli and chicken, beef or pork); lad na (rice noodles with broccoli in brown gravy with chicken, beef or pork) and the "Spicy drunken noodles," stir-fried with basil, chicken, beef or pork.

Home Grown Cafe & Gourmet to Go

Home Grown Cafe & Gourmet to Go

126 E. Main St. - Newark
302-266-6993

Ethnic restaurants don't have a lock on the offbeat noodle dishes -- keep an eye out for those sharp chefs who appeal to our sense of nostalgia with upscale mac-and-cheese dishes. For example, Home Grown's "Forest Mushroom Mac & Cheese" that's fortified with a house-made Gruyère sauce infused with truffle oil. Yum.

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